Questions about traversing the Pyrenees

[FrancisTapon]

Thank you for a very interesting website. I also did el Camino de Santiago around the same season as you except in 2008. In general, as someone who has hiked in a lot of places, I agree with your sentiments about its dull nature...

This summer I will likely hike the HRP, or perhaps the GR 10 as well (a touch one coast touch the other then touch the other hike comes to mind). I am wondering the following:

Can this hike be done cheaply? How much do you reckon I could do it for?

It mostly depends on how many refugios you stay at and how many meals you eat there. I never stay at one, nor did I ever eat there. The meal prices are reasonable, considering they're hauling the food from far away, but I still saved money eating the food that I carried. A night costs about $20 and the food costs about $10 for a hearty meal. So multiply those costs accordingly. It takes most people less than 60 days to do the traverse, so the max cost would be $1,800. That's really living it up. To do it cheaply, you can eat for about $10/day, so that's $600 on food. Spend $3 for a shower in a refugio every now and then, you'll spend $50 on showers. If you hike a bit faster, you can do the whole thing under $500 for sure. A true cheapo could do it like I did it, 25 days or less and spend $250 on food and a shower every 3-4 days.

-Is a map and compass really necessary? Presumably so, but how tough is navigation anyway?

It's easy unless there is spring snow or fall snow (which I got in September). I never had a map, although a couple of hikers donated theirs when they were done with a section. I took photos of maps and looked at it on my camera's screen when necessary. You can recharge your camera at refugios for free. A compass is worth the weight. I have one on my Suunto watch. Fortunately, if you get totally lost, it's usually easy to find safety. The Pyrenees are fairly narrow, so just head downhill, following a stream, and you'll find civilization on either side of the crest.

> -Is it really as tough as some people have made it out to be in terms of terrain? Terrain-wise, how does it compare to the AT?

It's a bit easier than the AT's tough sections. You almost never have to use your hands to get through the trail. There's lots of ups and downs, but that's normal in hiking. Those who don't like going up and down all day should do El Camino.

> Do you reckon I can lose 20-25 pounds on the trip? Wouldn´t mind.

Maybe if you weigh 250+ pounds! If I lost 25 pounds, I'd be dead!

[WanderingBull]

Hello Francis,

Very interesting. I am wondering the following questions:

How did you wash your clothes? By hand or were there places to wash them?

Did you carry a phone or electronic device to respond to emails or post journals? If so, which one?

Does mobile coverage work in the Pyrenees? Specifically, I´m wondering about Orange.

I was talking to a couple guys from Barcelona the other day who claimed that the refugios were not staffed and/or did not serve food in Spain. I thought this unlikely, could you shed some light on this?

Thanks!

The Wandering Bull

[FrancisTapon]

How did you wash your clothes? By hand or were there places to wash them?

A few refugios had washing machines, but I washed by hand. The one time I didn't have coins. To hand wash, put my clothes at my feet into the shower and then hand wash them later. I hang them on my pack and they dry quickly.

Did you carry a phone or electronic device to respond to emails or post journals? If so, which one?

During the Pyrenees I used the Acer Aspire One netbook, which was complete overkill. I had to bring it with me anyway, but in your case, I would recommend something smaller and lighter. I'd go with a smart phone, like the iPhone, but if you'll do a lot of typing, then consider phone that has a dedicated QWERTY keyboard.

Does mobile coverage work in the Pyrenees? Specifically, I´m wondering about Orange.

I'm not sure since I didn't have a phone, but I'd bet that 80% of the Pyrenees is covered. I'd get a SIM card from a Spanish mobile carrier (I can't remember if Orange is French or Spanish). The Spanish side of the Pyrenees is nicer than French. Also, look at Andorra - they're in between and maybe can offer something that doesn't have roaming charges between the 3 countries.

I was talking to a couple guys from Barcelona the other day who claimed that the refugios were not staffed and/or did not serve food in Spain. I thought this unlikely, could you shed some light on this?

They're 2/3 right. There are three types of refugios:

1. "guardados" (guarded): "full-service" refugios. Beds, meals, showers, flushing toilets, the works. No camping allowed next to it.
2. libre (free): nice fully enclosed self-service huts. Beds are there, but they don't always have mattresses. They have no meals or showers.
3. Cabinas (cabins/shacks): barebones, rustic shelters. They're like AT shelters, with four walls + roof.

There's roughly equal proportions of each type of shelter. The maps will indicate what type of shelter is in each spot. My favorite are the libre ones. I almost always had them to myself, but in the high season they may be full since many like them.

Good luck!

[FrancisTapon]

I’m going to be in France this summer, and am thinking about hiking part of the Pyrenees. Unfortunately, I don’t think I’ll have time to hike the full length, as I’ll probably only have about 14 days to hike. Wondering if you might give me a recommendation for your favorite parts of the trail(s), and which section you’d do if you only had two weeks? I’ve done lots of long distance hiking, so I hike pretty decent distances per day.

Also, do you have recommendations for maps, or sites where I can find information about places to re-supply along the way (only two weeks, so probably only need to do that once or twice, but not sure if the trails run through or near many towns?) I’ve seen info online about shelters along the trail – are those something you come across with lots of regularity, or something I shouldn’t plan on finding much? Anyway, if you have any general websites or books you’d recommend for info on the trail(s), I would really appreciate it.

Katie

Katie, my favorite part of the trail was the area around Aneto and Monte Perdido. Follow the link to see 50 of my photos from there.

Resupplying is easy and shelters are everywhere. I wouldn't carry more than 3-4 days of food and if you run out, most full-service huts have food you can buy. Some people don't even bring a sleeping bag and just camp in the paid huts.

I'm not sure what's a good website, but this GR 11 Guide is popular. However, I haven't used it, so I can't give you a strong recommendation. I just winged it. I had 2-4 days of food and just walked. I didn't even have a map. At every trail head (and shelter) they have maps. So I just took a photo of it or memorized it. I don't recommend such backpacking, but it works for me.

Post what you learn here so that others can benefit! Good luck!

[FrancisTapon]

Dear Francis Tapon,

Really loved your website and your Tedx presentation. I believe that hiking could develop into a personal and self-exploratory experience, hence that is what I want to do. I am only 23 years old, with a Bachelor, Masters and I just quit from my recent job in a bank to understand what my next step will be and hiking sounds like a magnificent start! I looked upon your ideas about "El Camino de Santiago" and now I want to do the HRP. Should I be prepared for something? Should I take some special equipment for that path?

Thank you and keep up the good work and please keep up the good trails!!

Best,

Afonso Carrêlo

Dear Afonso Carrêlo,

It's unclear how experienced you are, but the Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne (HRP), which traverses the crest (Haute means High in French), is a standard mountain backpacking route.

Therefore, normal backpacking equipment is sufficient. How warm your gear should be depends on the time of the year that you go, but you should bring a sleeping bag that keeps you warm at 0 celcius (freezing).

Let me know how it goes!