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When should you enter the San Juans and what to bring?

Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:46 pm
by FrancisTapon
Francis Tapon,

I'm planning on a NOBO CDT thru-hike in 2008, and I was hoping that you could answer a few questions of mine. I only know people that I have SOBO'd the CDT, and I'm having trouble getting advice that I can trust from forums, etc. I just don't know about taking advice from people who took 5-7 months to hike--their hiking style and their journey will be far different from the one I have planned and would enjoy.

I'll need to be finished by about the 25th of August. I hiked the AT in 06, and the southern 850 miles of it again in 2007. I thru-hiked the PCT last year, and took it easy through the desert and hiked with a group. One I started hiking solo, I was very comfortable doing typical days of 35-42 miles with 25-30 miles on resupply days for most of the trail. I think I'll probably be a good bit slower on the CDT, since there are more challenges from every aspect of the hike. I'm trying to figure out when I should enter the San Juans, and what sort of equipment I'll need. I'm hoping to get them started between the 5th-15th of June, so that I will have enough of a time cushion in case anything semi-major goes wrong during my hike, and so that I don't need to show up for work/school at the last minute. I really want to give myself as much time as possible, so that I can hike at the pace I enjoy rather than being forced to hike a certain pace. I know that snow levels can vary greatly from year to year, but when did you enter the San Juans, and what sort of conditions did you encounter? Do you know any good sources to talk to about the snow conditions, and to ask whether or not I'll need in ace axe/crampons or snow shoes? Do you have any advice in general for someone planning a speedy NOBO thru-hike of the CDT?

I'm also wondering what sections of the CDT were exceptionally slow or exceptionally fast.

Thanks,

Hermes
Hermes: Many people don't understand people who hike many miles a day, but as you point out, the alternative is showing up late for school (or not doing a thru-hike).

I entered the San Juans in early May 2007. This was extremely early and I don't recommend it. There's still avalanche danger and it's nearly impossible to find any snow-free ground.

June is doable, but you'll definitely need an ice-axe. You don't need crampons. I had them in May, but didn't use them because the snow was always soft enough, even when I was hiking at 2am (which I did sometimes to make more progress on the harder snow, which still had a crunch to it). I should have used snow shoes there, but you don't need them in June unless it's a big snow year. My feet don't get cold, so I didn't mind having them in the snow all the time. The postholing in the afternoon was tiring though. Stay on the crest and you'll minimize the postholing, but at times it's impossible to avoid.

The more comfortable you are with snow, the earlier in June you can go. Those with little experience should wait until mid or late June.

The best place to learn about snow conditions is Postholer.com. 8)

General advice for speedy hikers: minimize your mail drops in post offices because their limited hours can mess up your pacing. Do drops in hostels or stores and buy things locally whenever possible.

Exceptionally slow parts: Wind River Range (the views will slow you down), Glacier (because of the permits system will slow you down), and the San Juans (rugged).

Exceptionally fast parts: The Great Divide Basin, most of New Mexico, and most of the middle section of Montana.

Tell me how it went!

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:07 am
by Rick D
This year, for instance, was a very high snow year in the San Juans. We started out at Cumbres pass on July 16 and were among the first thru-hikers in there that season! People we met going southbound told us that the CDT nobos had all been skipping the San Juans because of snow! We had plenty of snow patches early on, and just one difficult crossing of a large and steep snow bank. We actually fell on a 45 degree slope and slid 30 feet, scraping ourselves a bit. So take the ice axe!