| August 17 - Stupidities in Slovakia
No, this isn't some politically incorrect email about how
stupid Slovakians are. I would never generalize about a people in such a
mean and rotten way. Besides, I left all the stupid people behind in
Poland.
OK, no more Polish jokes. Promise.
This tale is about MY FIVE stupidities (and my Mr.
Magoo Lucky Factor that partly made up for them).
STUPIDITY #1: NOT KNOWING WHERE I AM
You know you've been traveling too long when you get
off a bus and have to ask someone, "What city am I in?"
I had told the attendant at the bus terminal in
Krakow, Poland that I wanted to go as close as possible to the High
Tatras in Slovakia. As usual, the person who sells the tickets at this
international city didn't speak a foreign language.
I hoped I got my message through by saying "Tatras"
and "Slovakia" a few times, but when I got off the bus I really wasn't
sure where I was.
Magoo Factor: I turned up in the right place.
STUPIDITY #2: FUMBLING THE CAMCORDER
You're not supposed to camp in the Tatras, but it's
easy to do if you follow these steps:
1) Get way off the trail: I cut across a tough
mountain range to enter an enormous zone without any trails.
2) Sleep at sunset: In my case, I was stuck way above
the tree line after having scrambled to a craggy peak. The only place to
camp was in a small cave on uneven rocks.
3) Wake up at dawn: That's when my troubles started.
I woke up and was surprised by what a sharp grade I
climbed. (I spent 20% of my 3 days in the Tatras using my hands to get
around. Getting off the trail doesn't help.)
I wanted to film the spectacular view and the tough
grade.
"I would hate to slip here and fall down. It's a long
way down...." I thought as I reached for my camcorder in my pocket.
Somehow the camcorder took on a life of its own and
jumped out of my hands as I stood over the cliff.
In slow motion I said, "Noooooooooo....."
But it wouldn't listen.
It crashed on the first rock and bounced high and then
down to the next rock, and the next, and the next....
I watched it do somersaults, back flips, and a half
twists with corner pike all the way down the mountain.
It was quite spectacular. I was so impressed I almost
cried. OK, maybe I was crying for other reasons....
Magoo Factor: After tumbling 15 meters/yards, the
Sony camcorder did not shatter. Although the video no longer works, the
digital camera still works! I couldn't believe it!
STUPIDITY #3: FUMBLING THE SLEEPING BAG
I was despondently stuffing my sleeping bag and
thinking, "OK, I gotta put this in a place that's pretty secure because
everything here is at an incline. This looks good over here...."
It stayed there. For about 2 seconds. And then it also
took a life of its own. And rolled away. All the way down the hill.
Because of its loft, it bounced MUCH farther than the
camcorder.
To give you an idea how far it fell, it took me 20
minutes to retrieve it and come back.
Magoo Factor: Despite the sharp rocks and the
incredibly long fall, the stuff sack only got a minor tear.
STUPIDITY #4: EATING GLASS
With two unnecessary trips down the mountain to
retrieve my crap, I was no longer a happy camper. I was putting away my
glass jar of peanut butter and it also leaped out of my hands.
Fortunately, it didn't roll down the hill, but it did shatter.
Lamenting my precious peanut butter and my woes, I sat
down and decided to eat it anyway. After all, I hate seeing good food go
to waste.
As I was eating it I thought that maybe this wasn't
such a bright idea. After all, there could be shards of glass in the
peanut butter.
"Nah...." I thought and carefully worked around the
glass as I spread it on my bread.
I was chomping away when suddenly I heard a "CRUNCH!"
That wasn't the sound of a little peanut being broken
in my mouth. That was glass.
I spit what I thought was the bad portion and
swallowed the rest. Hey, I was hungry.
Magoo Factor: I felt very minor pain (I think it
was psychological) for about 5 minutes afterwards. Otherwise, no
internal bleeding. The glass tasted good! Just like peanut butter!
STUPIDITY #5: ABANDONING THE BELT CLIP
That night I was again stuck above the tree line when
the sun set. I found two big rocks and set up my tarp just in case it
rained. On cue, the moment I got under the tarp the sky lit up and
thunder roared.
That was a lonely night on top of another craggy
outcropping. The lightning storm just added a bit of drama.
The next day when I changing from pants to shorts, I
didn't transfer my cell phone belt clip. I left it behind. Idiot.
Magoo Factor: A few days later I went to a store to
buy a new belt clip. The store clerk said he didn't have just a belt
clip, but he gave me a complete holster for free. "It's a gift from
Slovakia," he said.
HIGH TATRAS: BEST BACKPACKING EVER
Despite my misfortunes, I adored the Tatras. I have
never experienced such an amazing backpacking in my life. They brought
back many memories:
- THE MAJESTY of the Tetons
- THE JAGGED EDGES of the Ansel Adams Wilderness
- THE ALPINE VIEWS of Yosemite
- THE HUTS of the
White Mountains of New Hampshire
- THE DIABOLICAL TRAILS of Maine
The trails were insane. They've managed to blur the
line between backpacking and rock climbing.
Many trails required you to use a long metal chain to
go up or down the mountain. Lose your grip and you're history.
Bring gloves if you hike here. The cold metal numbs
your hands. Which is the last thing you need to have happen when your
life depends on your grip. At least once person dies in the Tatras every
week.
I was dangling off one of those chains late in the
freezing evening when nobody was around (after 6PM everyone is in the
huts). I thought, "If my mom knew how close I am to dying she would kill
me."
ABUNDANCE OF TP
In Belarus I wished for more toilet paper, but in
Slovakia I wish there were less... on the trail. This is the only
stupidity I found Slovakians doing.
I asked a Slovakian why is there so much toilet paper
on the trails. She blamed the "tourists."
"OK, this is a national park lady, we're all
tourists," I told her, "So can you be more specific? Why don't they pack
it out?"
She blamed the tourists from the neighboring
countries. She added, 90% of the people here are from Czech Republic,
not Slovakia.
An 18 year old man said the Slovakians are also to
blame. Having visited their small local parks and seeing TP everywhere,
this guy may be right: this is also a Slovakian tradition.
The stupidest thing I saw was this outhouse near the
summit of a mountain. It did not contain the waste, but just let it all
fall down the steep mountain gully. With a little rain all the toilet
paper and shit just roll down the mountain into the pristine water
below. Brilliant.
Pity, because it is a perfect place otherwise. They
call it the biggest little mountains in Europe. They're only 7,500 feet
high (about 2500 meters), but they look and feel much higher. I just
wish the territory were a bit bigger. You can see almost everything with
three days of vigorous backpacking.
This pictures don't do it justice, but it can give you
a small idea:
Cows and Tatras.
Click on
the three pics with the word "High Tatras" in them.
A
decent map of Slovakia and one good pic of snow capped Tatras:
A
few more clickable pics.
PIT STOP IN TRENCIN, SLOVAKIA
I took a day trip to a cute little town on the way to
Brastislava that has a
castle a hill.
It was a cute town on my way to....
BRATISLAVA
Another well-preserved
old town in Eastern Europe. I'm surprised I'm not sick of them yet.
Although
Bratislava was wonderful, the highlight of Slovakia was the High
Tatras. See them when you go to Krakow, Poland. It's about 2-3 hours
away. But don't go to the Polish side of the Tatras. Most believe the
Slovakian side is the best.
NEXTALE: The Czech Republic
awaits, including the glorious city of Prague! |

I arrived in the High Tatras on August 8 and stayed three nights. It had some
of the most incredible trails I have ever seen.

Despite the warnings of the ranger who said that I'll get lost and
"never find the way", I went way off the trail to seek some adventure. I
got it.

This is where I slept: between a rock and a hard place. It was a small
cave. I was above the tree line so there was no place to put my tarp.

I woke up to the next morning to this view. When trying to film it I
dropped (and broke) my camcorder, watched my sleeping bag roll down the
mountain and rip, and then I ate glass. All and all, a great morning.

After packing up my stuff, I had to climb this wall.

Climbing up this rock face was challenging because the rocks were
extremely brittle. Luckily nobody was behind me to receive all the rocks
that tumbled down the mountain.

Although I was there in the middle of summer, it was cold at the high
elevations.

The mystical clouds in the High Tatras were mesmerizing.

This was part of the "trail." Grab the chain and go down (or up). It was
late at night. Nobody there. The chain was freezing cold. I had no
gloves. My hands were so cold they were numb, making it hard to grip the
chain. But if I fell, my body would be unhappy.

Another precarious part of the trail (see chain).

All backpackers are supposed to stay in the cabins. But I didn't.
Instead I spent some a couple of thrilling nights above the tree line.
One night was in a cave. The second was when I ran out of daylight near
a mountain summit and I
set up the tarp between two big rocks. That night was a wicked
thunderstorm which was especially dramatic with the silhouette of the
craggy, evil mountains looming over me.

I met a group of Spanish hikers here.

I didn't purify the water.

Despite my misfortunes, the High Tatras was probably the best backpacking I've ever done.

This photo is about priorities. When we backpack, you can only carry the
essentials. For most people that means things like a sleeping bag,
clothes, and food. For this Slovakian, it was a keg of beer.

After several days, I finally got a shower
and headed to Bratislava, the lovely and charming capital of Slovakia! |